New Dress “Alice”: Progress Photos 2-6-21

Introduction In this posting I share progress photos of a new dress developed through a combo of flat patternmaking and draping. The photos featured are of the half-toile to test the fit. Combination Technique: Draping and flat patternmaking 95% of this toile was made using a flat pattern. I used the Misses Size 8 sloperContinue reading “New Dress “Alice”: Progress Photos 2-6-21″

Standard Misses 8 and my Altered Customized Sloper

Introduction The basic fitting shell for the Misses Size 8 was draped. A toile was made twice each time refining the fit. When the basic Size 8 was turned into a sloper I then went on to customize it for myself. Why not draft a custom made pattern? I have been drafting patterns to myContinue reading “Standard Misses 8 and my Altered Customized Sloper”

Creating a Basic Fitting Toile &Alterations, Part 3

Introduction When I draped the basic skirt I ended up with two darts for the front and back skirts. I had followed the instructions in in Draping for Fashion Design by Hilda Jaffe and Nurie Rellis. Although the dart intake was evenly distributed the finished results were unsatisfactory. In this posting I will share howContinue reading “Creating a Basic Fitting Toile &Alterations, Part 3”

Creating a Basic Fitting Toile & Alterations, Part 2

Introduction I have completed alterations to the bodice of the fitting toile I draped for a Misses Size 8. The time was well spent. A comparison to the first toile and this one will show the value of taking time to ensure a good fit. Assessing the fit Fitting tucks were made vertically in theContinue reading “Creating a Basic Fitting Toile & Alterations, Part 2”

Creating a Basic Fitting Toile & Alterations

Introduction A garment that fits one perfectly is the most important aspect of a garment. Ill fitting clothing is not flattering. No amount of design, jewelry or even color can distract the eye of the beholder. Those who see someone in a garment that does not fit correctly will only notice the flaws in theContinue reading “Creating a Basic Fitting Toile & Alterations”

Draping: Placement & length of bodice and skirt darts

Introduction In my posting Draping: Pin Fitting the First Pattern, I showed photos of the first paper pattern created from the initial drape. I tested the paper pattern on a half-toile and found the dart placement, width and length on bodice and skirt needed correction. This posting presents some important pointers on darts from myContinue reading “Draping: Placement & length of bodice and skirt darts”

Spring!: My recreation of a Vintage Skirt and Blouse

Introduction I purchased an early 1960s blouse by the Tropicana company during the furlough from my job due to COVID-19 this past Spring. The blouse provided a fun challenge to me during those days at home. I decided to renew my skills in draping and recreate as much as possible the blouse. As happens, theContinue reading “Spring!: My recreation of a Vintage Skirt and Blouse”

Draping: Pin fitting the First Pattern

Introduction I use the modern draping system created by Hilda Jaffe and Nurie Relis in their book “Draping for Fashion Design”. It is one of the better books on the subject for me. I am always satisfied with the fit that results from their technique. I also add in some vintage fitting and sewing techniquesContinue reading “Draping: Pin fitting the First Pattern”