Standard Misses 8 and my Altered Customized Sloper


The basic fitting shell for the Misses Size 8 was draped. A toile was made twice each time refining the fit. When the basic Size 8 was turned into a sloper I then went on to customize it for myself.

Why not draft a custom made pattern?

I have been drafting patterns to my own measurements and have become very comfortable with the system I use. During the COVID-19 related furlough from my job this past Spring I decided it was time to take on a few challenges.

I am weak in the making of alterations. Since my dress form is a standard Misses 8, I decided to take on the challenges of draping and altering a Misses 8 for myself. I am between a Misses 6 and 8 for the bodice. For a skirt I am between a Misses 8 and 10.

I also have fitting challenges resulting from a small bustline, concave chestline and sloping shoulders. There were a few challenges I wanted to take up on the time I had to stay home from March until June 2020.

Working with Oaktag

The goal of using sloper was on my To Do list since 2018. The large roll of oaktag I bought from Steinlauf & Stoller moved with me from Brooklyn, NY to Linden, NJ waiting to be used. Being tightly rolled up for 2 years made it difficult to get into a workable state for making a sloper.

I had to roll the oaktag out on the floor and keep it in place with heavy books. I then cut the oak tag into length and width suitable to each pattern piece. To stop the curling I pressed each piece of oak tag by covering them with a thick towel. Then I used a steam iron to press flat.

The ends still curled so I laid the pressed oaktag pieces on top of each other onto the floor. The I piled heavy books evenly across them.

After two days the oak tag was flat enough. The pattern pieces were laid on top and the markings transferred. I cut out the darts because I want to try pivoting the pattern pieces to change the dart intake when working on transformations.

Finished Slopers

The white slopers are for the standard Misses Size 8. The green are mine. You can immediately see where my figure differs from the standard. I have to get a hole puncher. Then the hooks from which to hang the sloper pieces.

Bodice and Skirt Slopers. Misses Size 8 left. Size 8 altered to my figure on right.

Misses Size 8 unfitted sleeve on left. Sleeve adjusted to my figure on right.

Published by EmilyAnn Frances

I was born and raised in Dyker Heights, Brooklyn, New York. I attended Hunter College where I graduated magna cum laude with a B.A. in English Language Arts. After graduation I worked in various industries such as publishing, fashion, financial services, investment banking, and for government. My passion for fashion was nurtured at the French Fashion Academy where I learned dressmaking, patternmaking, sketching and draping. My enjoyment of dressmaking and family history find a wonderful home here at WordPress. I hope you enjoy both of my blogs.

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