How to draft a Sheath Skirt Sloper

These pattern drafting instructions were given to me by a student who attended the Traphagen School of Design in the 1980s. It was a private design school in New York City. The instructions are very simple when you take the time to read them through before you start drafting your pattern. Make a muslin toContinue reading “How to draft a Sheath Skirt Sloper”

Photos of me wearing the Pat Perkins 1950s dress and my 2021 version

Please note: I forgot to button the second button on the Alice Elizabeth dress when putting it on for the photo. The Pat Perkins dress is a little short in the waist for me. otherwise the fit is very good. There is a 2″ style ease at the waistlisne which makes putting on the dressContinue reading “Photos of me wearing the Pat Perkins 1950s dress and my 2021 version”

Free Pat Perkins 1950s inspired Repro Dress Pattern

Introduction I am releasing my pattern for the Alice Elizabeth dress into the public domain. You are free to download and size it up or down in a graphics program. You can alter the design. I also give permission to use it privately or commercially. This is a basic pattern that you can use asContinue reading “Free Pat Perkins 1950s inspired Repro Dress Pattern”

Alice Elizabeth: My version of a 1950s House Dress by Pat Perkins

Introduction The dress pattern and design is based on a 1950s house dress by Pat Perkins that I bought during Lockdown 2020. I wanted to create a basic pattern to dervice this and future retro inspired clothes I make. I bought the dress from a vintage seller on Etsy and posted a detailed style analysisContinue reading “Alice Elizabeth: My version of a 1950s House Dress by Pat Perkins”

Misses Size 8 Slopers you may copy and use

I am releasing my Misses size 8 slopers into the commons. I grant permission to anyone who wants to use them commercially or personally. You can copy, download and size in your graphics program. My reason for making these available is to help others get a head start on their patternmaking and dressmaking business orContinue reading “Misses Size 8 Slopers you may copy and use”

New Dress “Alice”: Progress Photos 2-6-21

Introduction In this posting I share progress photos of a new dress developed through a combo of flat patternmaking and draping. The photos featured are of the half-toile to test the fit. Combination Technique: Draping and flat patternmaking 95% of this toile was made using a flat pattern. I used the Misses Size 8 sloperContinue reading “New Dress “Alice”: Progress Photos 2-6-21″

Marfy “Evergreen” Edition

The Marfy pattern books are published by Marfy Studio Stilistico in Ferrara, Italy. Each edition comes with a free, multi-sized pattern. The illustrations are detailed enough so that dressmakers and patternmakers can get ideas for their own projects. Along with the exquisite illustrations, there are fabric recommendations. The color combinations are sometimes striking, other timesContinue reading “Marfy “Evergreen” Edition”

Pat Perkins Everyday Dress, circa 1950s – Analysis

Introduction Further consideration of my plans for my next project is needed. The sketch of the chambray shirtwaist dress expresses my idea. However, the details I had envisioned must be changed. I had planned on having in-seam buttonholes. I have been wanting to try this kind of buttonhole for a long time. I want toContinue reading “Pat Perkins Everyday Dress, circa 1950s – Analysis”

Standard Misses 8 and my Altered Customized Sloper

Introduction The basic fitting shell for the Misses Size 8 was draped. A toile was made twice each time refining the fit. When the basic Size 8 was turned into a sloper I then went on to customize it for myself. Why not draft a custom made pattern? I have been drafting patterns to myContinue reading “Standard Misses 8 and my Altered Customized Sloper”

Preliminary Sketch for New Project-Chambray Shirtwaist Dress

Introduction I always start a project with a sketch. It acts as a roadmap. Once a fitting toile is made, the style may take on further changes. It depends on the resulting drape and other details I may want to add. Right now, I am considering this shirtwaist dress with additional details. The most practicalContinue reading “Preliminary Sketch for New Project-Chambray Shirtwaist Dress”