New Dress “Alice”: Progress Photos 2-6-21


In this posting I share progress photos of a new dress developed through a combo of flat patternmaking and draping. The photos featured are of the half-toile to test the fit.

Combination Technique: Draping and flat patternmaking

95% of this toile was made using a flat pattern. I used the Misses Size 8 sloper to create the fitted bodice, semi-fitted skirt and basic unfitted sleeve.

3/4 view of half-toile.

The flat pattern for the bodice front had the horizontal side dart closed and vertical dart opened. The construction of the bodice shoulder, back yoke, back tuck and side seams were completed. After steam pressing the bodice was pinned to the form. The excess dart intake below the bust was draped into two vertical tucks each 3 1/8″ high and about 1 1/2″ wide. I like the softer look of the tucks over the dressmaker dart under the bust.

Front view of half-toile..

I am very pleased so far with the 6 gore skirt. It was created by closing the darts of the basic semi-fitted skirt. The skirt front and back were cut along the lines of the dart and below the dart. Each piece then had extra width added at the hemline along front and back princess lines and side seams. I find the fit of this kind of gored skirt even more flattering than that of the 6 or 8 gore skirt created through flat patternmaking.

The collar was simple, easy flat patternmaking as was the sleeve. The next posting will be published once the fitting toile is complete.

Giving a Name to the Dress

As I work on a new project and gather the notions and fabric, I develop an image of who the dress will be for. I choose a name to create a sense of space between my self and what is coming to expression. This permits me to think whether or not improvements are needed. When I am too close personally and emotionally to a project become too attached. That is not good because it prevents perception of where the fit or creative result is lacking. This dress is called Alice. I will add a middle name once I feel more of the character of the dress emerging.

Published by EmilyAnn Frances

Born and grew up in Brooklyn, New York when it was a borough for working families and businesses. It was the pre-Gentrification Brooklyn where you could see the sky against the trees, mingle with people from all backgrounds and make friends. A place where people bought a house for living in. There were no tourists, rarely a hotel and the word luxury was for those who lived far away. After gentrification I felt no connection to the borough or city I once loved. I now live in Linden, New Jersey where a spirit of community and neighborly interest still exists.