New Precision Draping Project: Pencil skirt and blouse with ruffled collar

More practice in Precision Draping.  Half-toile of pattern made from tissue paper drape.  First fitting.  Sleeve made through flat patternmaking.  Ruffled collar made off of the drape through flat patternmaking. Facing and buttonhole extension to be added.  To be paired with a pencil skirt drafted from a pattern created with instructions from the 60s.   Style influences areContinue reading “New Precision Draping Project: Pencil skirt and blouse with ruffled collar”

Draping in tissue paper, part 1

New work in progress…I am taking up the challenge to drape in tissue paper.  During WWII there was rationing of consumer goods including fabrics like cotton and silk.  To conserve resources for the war effort, fashion schools and books about patternmaking taught students how to drape in tissue paper instead of muslin.  The technique was usedContinue reading “Draping in tissue paper, part 1”

Sheath Skirt Half-toile created from pattern drafting instruction sheet circa 1960s

Introduction On 6th January 2022, I posted screen shots of an original 1960s pattern drafting instruction sheet. Since the original is faded, I typed up the instructions along with my comments. The instructions are the simplest flat pattern drafting instructions I’ve used so far. In this posting I evaluation the half-toile created using the measurementsContinue reading “Sheath Skirt Half-toile created from pattern drafting instruction sheet circa 1960s”

How to refine a Denim Sheath Skirt look

Introduction In this posting I share some of the fitting and sewing techniques I used to refine my favorite denim sheath skirt. The skirt is made with a bottom weight 100% cotton denim by Kauffman. The fabric was laundered and dried prior to marking, cutting and sewing. The pattern was developed entirely through draping inContinue reading “How to refine a Denim Sheath Skirt look”

How to draft a Sheath Skirt Sloper

These pattern drafting instructions were given to me by a student who attended the Traphagen School of Design in the 1980s. It was a private design school in New York City. The instructions are very simple when you take the time to read them through before you start drafting your pattern. Make a muslin toContinue reading “How to draft a Sheath Skirt Sloper”

Free Pat Perkins 1950s inspired Repro Dress Pattern

Introduction I am releasing my pattern for the Alice Elizabeth dress into the public domain. You are free to download and size it up or down in a graphics program. You can alter the design. I also give permission to use it privately or commercially. This is a basic pattern that you can use asContinue reading “Free Pat Perkins 1950s inspired Repro Dress Pattern”

Alice Elizabeth: My version of a 1950s House Dress by Pat Perkins

Introduction The dress pattern and design is based on a 1950s house dress by Pat Perkins that I bought during Lockdown 2020. I wanted to create a basic pattern to dervice this and future retro inspired clothes I make. I bought the dress from a vintage seller on Etsy and posted a detailed style analysisContinue reading “Alice Elizabeth: My version of a 1950s House Dress by Pat Perkins”

New Dress “Alice”: Progress Photos 2-6-21

Introduction In this posting I share progress photos of a new dress developed through a combo of flat patternmaking and draping. The photos featured are of the half-toile to test the fit. Combination Technique: Draping and flat patternmaking 95% of this toile was made using a flat pattern. I used the Misses Size 8 sloperContinue reading “New Dress “Alice”: Progress Photos 2-6-21″

Standard Misses 8 and my Altered Customized Sloper

Introduction The basic fitting shell for the Misses Size 8 was draped. A toile was made twice each time refining the fit. When the basic Size 8 was turned into a sloper I then went on to customize it for myself. Why not draft a custom made pattern? I have been drafting patterns to myContinue reading “Standard Misses 8 and my Altered Customized Sloper”

How to draft a Half Circle Skirt Pattern

Preparation See “How to Take Measurements” if you are using your personal measurements. You can also use the Standard Misses Size measurements provided here. You can see the finished half circle skirt here. Pattern Diagram Measurements Needed Size Misses 4 measurements are used as an example. Waist=23″ Front Skirt Length=24″ (40″-16″=24″) Calculate One Fourth ofContinue reading “How to draft a Half Circle Skirt Pattern”