Work in Progress: New Misses 8 Sloper

Introduction

I have begun draping a new Misses Size 8 Sloper that is slightly different than the sloper previously completed and now available for your use to size in a graphics program. The earlier sloper has worked well but I want to create another one to check the differences in fit.

This project got its start with the pencil skirt pattern. The skirt currently available is slightly flared and more suitable to 1940s styles. For many 1950s styles a slim pencil skirt is needed. So that is what I draped. I then went on to drape a fitted bodice with darts above and below the bust. I also draped a fitted sleeve with elbow dart.

The curve on the pencil skirt breaks at the abdomen instead of the hipline. I want to see if this results in a better fit for the skirt. A fit that is attractive but not too tight. I’m hoping that the skirt will have more comfort and room to move. Not everyone has a smaller abodomen-larger hip measurement. It can also be the other way around! I look forward to seeing if this small difference results in a more flattering fit.

I drape in tissue paper using the Precision Draping technique created by author Nellie Weymouth Link. The tehcnique can be learned through her book of the same name. I will post photos of the progress and look forward to sharing the finished sloper when completed.

Photos of the pattern in progress

Original tissue paper drape is copied again to tissue paper. I call this the second pattern and it will be used to cut a full toile.

Tissue paper drape after marking. Next step is to press the paper. Then trace to a clean sheet of tracing paper.

A tracing of the drape was made to clean tracing paper. The fitted sleeve pattern needs a light pressing. Next step: cut the sleeve on fabric and add to the bodice.

This pattern is the result of testing the fit using the second tissue pattern paper. The results were good so the tissue was copied to dotted pattern paper.

New Precision Draping Project: Pencil skirt and blouse with ruffled collar

More practice in Precision Draping. Half-toile of pattern made from tissue paper drape. First fitting. Sleeve made through flat patternmaking. Ruffled collar made off of the drape through flat patternmaking. Facing and buttonhole extension to be added. To be paired with a pencil skirt drafted from a pattern created with instructions from the 60s.

Style influences are from the clothes my Mom and the neighborhood women wore when I was growing up in Dyker Heights, Brooklyn.

Draping in tissue paper, part 1

New work in progress…I am taking up the challenge to drape in tissue paper. During WWII there was rationing of consumer goods including fabrics like cotton and silk. To conserve resources for the war effort, fashion schools and books about patternmaking taught students how to drape in tissue paper instead of muslin. The technique was used by author Nellie Weymouth Links in her 1947 book “Precision Draping”. I taught myself the method during Lockdown 2020 except at the time I used muslin. I think it is time I learned how to do it in tissue paper. If I am successful, I will save a lot of money! The new project is a blouse with a blouse yoke. The kind of blouse yoke I will make is for the lower part of the blouse. It is described in Claire Schaeffer’s “Couture Sewing Techniques”. The pattern is derived from a skirt pattern. The yoke holds the upper part of the blouse neatly in place and fits smoothly under the skirt. I will post a screen shot of the sketch and half toile when completed..

Photos of work in progress