For this styling exercise I wanted to apply the principles of Minumalism. Here are a few key elements of Minamulism in design and styling:
* Clothing is well fitting. * Neutral shades predominate. * Classic styling with minimal details. * High quality fabrics and notions. * Form follows function. There must be a purpose to every part of the garment. This results in fewer frills and non-essential details. * Accessories must be carefully chosen and contribute to a refined look.
I started with my favorite Little Black Dress (LBD).
LBD Details
I bought this LBD at a small boutique on Fifth Avenue in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn. A sewista with mid-level skills will be able to analyze the style lines and understand how the fit is achieved. This LBD skims the body but is not form fitting. Fit is achieved through vertical princess seaming from shoulder to hem on each side of center front and center back. The princess seams intersect with the bust dart and vertical dart on the front of the basic sheath dress pattern. They also go through where the shoulder dart and vertical dart on the back basic pattern are.
There are two layers to the butterfly sleeves. Each layer is lined with a lightweight black satin. The dress is also lined with the same material. This helps the dress fit smoothly over the body. My challenge was to find one accessory that adds visual interest and works as a definitive focal point for the outfit. Determing the focal point is a skill developed through practice. My ability in this area is still developing.
The Focal Point for the LBD
I decided there could be two different focal points. Which one I would apply depended on the occassion. Styling #1
The fluttery butterfly sleeves reminded me of similar sleeves on dresses and blouses of the 1930s. I wanted to add a combination of retro Art Deco and Modern Minimalism in the choice of the accessory to define the focal point.
I selected a wide elastic band belt with a triangular mock Marcasite belt. The sparkling belt buckle creates a striking contrast against the black dress. The width of the belt works well to create a more fitted look. The width of the belt is just right since it keeps the eye focused on the waist area. This is where I wanted the focal point to be.
Styling #2
For a different look, I removed the belt and considered accessories that create a different impact and vocal point. These accessories provide some interest but keep the eye focused on the fit and flow of the LBD. I chose costume jewelry in the form of a mock cubic zirconia ring set. The purse has a mock marcasite closure that also carries a little feeling of Art Deco. It may be used as a clutch. It also comes with silver chains with clasps that connect with loops that swivel up from the inside of the purse. For a little added sophistication, a silvery rhinestone perfume atomizer or lipstick case can add further interest to the purse as a focal point.
Conclusion
It is possible to combine the principles of timelessness and simplicity of Minimalism with one or two elements of vintage fashion. Practice and experimentation will help develop the sensibilities needed.
The fitting toile for my 1930s Inspired Skirt and Blouse is finished. I am now thinking of a name for this outfit. I have to research popular women’s names during the 1930s. When I find the one that resonates with this outfit that will be the name I choose. This usually happens after I have completed selecting accessories and lingerie to complete the look.
Please note that the sloper and the pattern are not copies of 1930s patterns or created using a 1930s patternmaking system. I used a modern patternmaking system to save time and because the resulting fit meets the needs of the modern woman for comfort to move and ease in putting on and off.
Details of the Fitting Toile for the 1930s Inspired Skirt and Blouse
One of the difficult details for me in recreating a 1930s inspired blouse was training my eye and mind to accept a wide, flat fitted collar. On the right hand side of the collar in the photo is the narrow collar I started with. I thought this would look better. As I thought about it I realized that I am thinking too much of the narrow Peter Pan collars of 1950s dresses and blouses. I have experience with those, but not with the bolder, wider styled collars of the 1930s.
To attune my eye so that I created the right width I drafted a wider collar and made a toile from that collar pattern. I then pinned it over the left side shown in the photo. I gave myself time to visually accept the comparisons before making a decision. In time I realized the wider collars felt right and looked better for this style of blouse. So with that the wider flat fitted collar was chosen.
Note: Collar on left is wider than collar on the right. The comparison was made to determine the best width for the overall look of the blouse.
Have you ever noticed how many vintage pattern illustrations from the 1930s and 1940s show blouses with smooth lower portions that look like peplums? Not every blouse with this lower portion that looked like a peplum was indeed a peplum. It was actually a blouse yoke, a feature that is still used in French couture today. The blouse yoke is made from a basic pencil skirt pattern with length equal to distance from waist line to hip line. One or both darts are open to create a very slight flare. The yoke is adjusted during fitting to come a little closer to the hip curve.
The upper portion of the blouse runs from the neckline to waistline. The waist is sewn to the yoke after the bodice side seams are finished. When the skirt is put on, the yoke holds the blouse in place. It also provides a nice fullness and smoothness for the skirt to flow over the hips.
The flounce pattern is derived from cutting a length off the upper skirt pattern. Front and back are evenly divided and opened an equal amount for the slashes. Here is an important tip I learned from trial and error: measure the width of the hem at front and back. They should be equal. Otherwise the flares will look uneven. To get the best and softest flow and movement, cut the flounce at center front placed on the fold of the true bias. This takes more fabric but the result is very beautiful. The flounce can also be cut with center front on the lengthwise grain. There will still be flare but not as much as when cut on true bias.
The skirt will have a 1/2″ to 3/4″ waistband backed with Ban-Rol. This gives a smooth look and fit. The result is that the waistband has an effect similar to a belt. The skirt fits better and the waistband never rolls or bends as it would without interfacing or a non-woven interfacing that is washed or dry cleaned many times.
This week I reviewed the first sketch made for my next project, a 1930s inspired skirt and blouse. I do not have much experience working with styles of this decade, so it is a big challenge for me. I have only made one dress using design elements from a 1930s book, Paris Frocks at Home. That dress was designed as what I envisioned a woman would have as a special occasion dress during the Great Depression. It was pretty enough for a semi-formal occasion and yet could be worn for more everyday events such as a Sunday visit.
With my new project I am envisioning how a woman would dress for work during the 1930s. I want the skirt and blouse to be pretty and attractive enough to be wearable for today. For this reason I am taking only certain elements from the 1930s, not all of them.
I re-thought the first sketch and was not satisfied with it. I will detail the reasons here while sharing the importance of maintaining a clear focal point for any design.
What is a focal point?
A focal point is that part of the outfit where you want to:
–direct the gaze of the viewer –emphasize a feature and make it attractive –express an idea about the outfit, i.e. what is the message
Importance of integrating a focal point into the flow of the design
A focal point must be in harmony with the overall appearance and purpose of the outfit. It has to have pleasing proportions and add to the wearers attractiveness. Learning how to balance focal points takes experience. You want at least one, perhaps two. But never so many that the eye does not rest on any particular area and then move to what feature you are emphasizing. For example, in Version 1 of the 1930s outfit there are, I think, conflicting focal points. The scalloped yoke of the skirt competes with the bow of the blouse.
Version no. 2 of the skirt and blouse appears more calm and pleasing to the eye. The flounce at the bottom of the skirt emphasizes the movement when the wearer walks. A second focal point is the v-neckline of the Peter Pan flat collar. A small, marcasite Art Deco broach can be pinned at the neckline to create a second focal point. Or, very pretty but small buttons may be used to create the second focal point. Here there is a more sublte play between the focal points that Version no. 1 lacks.
How to compare focal points and choose the right combinations
One way to choose the right combination of focal points, or choose to have just one focal point, is to make separate sketches of the parts of the outfit. Then make a complete sketch of the outfit put together.
1930s skirt and blouse sketches and notes, Version no. 1
1930s skirt and blouse sketches and notes, Version no. 2.
If doubts remain about the current pairing of separate parts of the outfit, the sketches of the garment pieces can be mixed and matched. This gives some idea on how the elements might or might not work together in a different combination.
Blouse Ver. no. 2 is paired with Skirt Ver. no. 1 on the left. On the right Blouse Ver. no 1 is paired with Skirt Ver. no. 2.
It helps if the sketches are put aside for a day or two. Then they can be reviewed again with a fresh point of view. When performing this review, be aware of what first captures your attention. Then consider how that first focal point works with other elements in the design.
Through this process of sketching, considering, studying and planning you will come up with an important and clear definition of how to proceed in the next steps of your design plans.
My final choice: Version no. 2
Additional Resources
To learn more about focal points in fashion please visit:
UEN Utah Education Network Emphasis_the_Focal_Point_of_Fashion_1_.pdf Scroll down and on the right side of the screen are free course materials you can download that will help you understand what the focal point is about.
I am making a series of slopers based on basic patterns created in the 1930s by Margaret C. Ralston. Her drafting system and pattern transformations were published in a book entitled Dress Cutting.
I am using the pattern drafting system that was taught at the French Fashion Academy. I find this system more suited to making retro inspired clothing., rather than using a vintage pattern drafting system. This route saves me time and makes the process more enjoyable. Ralston’s instructions sometimes make no sense to me. For example the sleeve seam is 3/4″ to the front of the bodice, meaning the sleeve seam will not match the side seam of the bodice. In the instructions for transforming a skirt pattern, she writes that sometimes a skirt side seam can be moved towards the back. I am sure this all made sense to her students and target audience at the time. However, I am not sure of how the results will look now and I do not have the time to go into that kind of nitty gritty effort to be authentic. So long as I can create a pattern and garment with a feeling and a little touch from a selected time period I’m quite satisfied. My goal is always to create a little bit of the look of retro combined with ease and movement of modern clothing.
The patterns for the 1930s sloper are drafted using the measurements for a Standard Misses Size 4. My vision is to create the building blocks of 1930s inspired styles that will look flattering on a smaller range of sizes. When completed the slopers will be put up at my blog. They can be best graded down to Misses sizes 0 -2 and upward to Misses sizes 6-8.
Three inches of ease at the hips and 1 1/2 inches of ease at the waist was added to the basic straight skirt drafted as the basis for this flared skirt.
Creating the flared skirt pattern and fitting toile
Cover of Dress Cutting (left) and pattern diagram for basic flared skirt. Notice how the flares begin at the hipline with overlapping of the pattern from waist to hip.
On the straight skirt pattern, the first dart by the side seam was closed halfway to give the skirt more ease and add a slight flare. The remainder of that dart was taken off from hip to waist.
Front of flared skirt pattern.
To create the flares the dart intake closer to center front was divided in half. I then drew two new darts equidisant with each having half of the intake. Then I added another slash line. The darts were closed and the third slash line opened. This reduced how high the flares would form. I repeated the same steps for the back skirt pattern.
Fitting toile of flared skirt.
As you can see from the fitting toile this is a very softly flared skirt. The flares begin below the abdomen and the sides fall straight. It feels true to the spirit of the 1930s when dresses were soft and there was lots of flare and movement created by insets, godets and the way in which the grain was used for a blouse, skirt or dress.
As of the date of this posting the skirt has been pinned to the form or 48 hours. I take this step to let the grain settle prior to marking and then putting up the hem. Sometimes I leave it hanging 72 hours. I highly recommend taking this step. Your finished toile will then reflect the way the flares look when hemmed. You will also know if you lose any length due to the way the grain settles. This skirt when finished and hemmed should have a center front length of 27-29 inches, in keeping with the longer skirt lengths of the 1930s.
I purchased this dress during the Covid-19 Lockdown of Spring 2020. At the time I was teaching myself Precision Draping, a vintage draping technique created by Nellie Weymouth Link. Through that self-learning I was becoming very aware of the effects dart manipulation had on creating vintage looks. I bought this dress as a study piece.
No specific decade was assigned to the dress. After studying the construction I estimate it was made late 1950s-early 1960s. I say that because of the lapped zipper application at center back. Many of the early 1950s dresses I have as study pieces, have lapped zippers in the side seam. Another indicator of time period is the skirt length. At the height of the 1950s skirt lengths were to mid-calf. As the 1960s began hemlines rose to an inch or a few inches right below the knee. This skirt comes to about 1 1/2″ below the knee when I am wearing it. I am 5′ 5″ tall.
The dress is shown here on my 2019 Wolf Misses Size 8 dress form. This dress may have been custom made. The waist is situated an inch above the dress form waistline. The bust apex is also slightly higher than the apex on the form.
I want to share the inside details with you because they offer a wealth of information about how dressmakers and home sewistas constructed their clothing during the late 1950s-early 1960s.
Bodice Front: Bustline Darts and Apex Point
There are 2 darts shaping the bodice front. The darts meet very closely at an apex point slightly above where the apex point is on the dress form. On the form the length from neck to apex point is 10 inches. On the dress the apex is about 1/2-5/8 inch above that. I can only think that the dress was designed based on the bullet bras or balconette bras of the time period. These were highly boned and made to uplift the bust very high, so that it would be visible against a low cut neckline. The neckline on this dress is not so low, so I think the point created by the two darts is intended to draw the eye further upward. It creates interest at the bust and lessens the ability of the eye to see that the wearer is short waisted.
As you can see in this closeup, the two darts converge at the apex point of the bust. There is a horizontal dart beginning at the front side seam. The vertical dart originates at the waistline, and goes up to the apex. From the apex it angles upwards. I think this bodice might have been adjusted for a customized fit. The angled portion above the apex could have been created during a fitting. The only other explanation I have for this unusual vertical dart is that another dart may have existed at the neckline. It was closed and transferred to the vertical dart. The neckline might have required contouring so that it fit better. Both on the dress form and myself the effect of the vertical, angled dart does not look flattering up close. Not even my underwire push-up bra makes the bodice look good! That is how high up the apex is!
Sleeve: Short Mounted Sleeve with Gusset
Short mounted sleeves with a gusset were used for the dress. The point of the gusset begins a little above the waistline. The point and corners of the gusset are very neatly sewn. You can get a better idea of how neat the sewing is by looking at the lining.
This type of sleeve gives a very close fit under the arm. It may have been chosen because the upper part of the sleeve is cut in one with the bodice at front and back. In wearing this dress, I loved the look but not the restriction on my movement. If I raised my arms very high or very often, the entire dress moved up with them. There is not enough room to move very freely or with a great scope of movement.
The darts of front and back skirt are not as long as darts on modern skirts. They are also positioned more to the side seams than close or on the princess lines. The front darts are about 2 1/2″ each, the back darts 4 1/2″ each. The effect is very rounded. Again, this indicates to me that the dress was custom fitted.
For flat patternmaking I use the French Fashion Academy Method by John Klamar. In that system the dart placement for the first dart is center of each skirt panel. This means half distance from Center Back and half distance from Center Front.skirt. The second dart is 1 1/2″ from the center of the first dart. Dart lengths are longer, too. The entire effect is more elongated and, I think, more flattering when the basic skirt is made up.
Closure: Center Back Lapped Zipper
The zipper closure at center back is beautifully finished. The addition of two bows at the waistline and top of the zipper adds yet another unique touch to this dress. The folded band over the waisline is hand sewn into place. It creates the look of a belt. The zipper even has a fabric loop and hook at top.
Finishings: Seam finishes, hems, bra strap holders
The dress is completely lined. The skirt lining hangs freely away from the bodice and is machine hemmed. The rest of the dress was hemmed by hand at skirt hem, sleeves and where the lining is attached to the neckline facing. Seams were pinked. The bra strap holder was made with the lining fabric.
What is the story with the darts?
I wondered why so many darts were used at the bustline, and why the darts at the hipline created a more rounded effect than I am used to seeing, even in vintage clothing.
I recently bought a reprint of a late 1950s sewing book entitled Sew The French Way by Line Jaque. I do not have any information about the author except that the book was originally written in French. In this book Line Jaque provides fitting instructions that are outside the norms of commercial patterns. The emphasis is on using as many darts as needed to achieve a good fit.
There are illustrations showing the kinds of dart placement found on the skirt of my cocktail dress. The lengths recommended in the book are the same as the dart lenghts for the skirt of my dress. I found this very interesting, too, because Line Jaque states it’s not necessary to have skirt darts align with bodice darts. Everything must be placed for the best fit possible.
Here is another illustration from the book showing the bodice of a dress with long mounted sleeves that have a gusset. Note the skirt darts. I hope this analysis has helped further your understanding of vintage garment sewing construction and design details.
Since this is the Labor Day weekend in the U.S., I have more time for dressing up in vintage clothes and sharing online. I also dressed my vintage fashion dolls up. Here are photos from this special day and my trip back in time to the time when my Mom and Aunties lived. Yes, they wore pretty housedresses like the ones by Pat Perkins. For very special occasions they had a sheath dress in a print or basic black. Other popular styles for day into evening had fitted bodices with scoop necklines, fitted sleeves and flared skirts.
1950s Pat Perkins day dress/house dress
This black and white checked dress is by Pat Perkins. The seller on ebay estimated it was early to mid 1950s. I agree with that because there is a side zipper. The bodice opens part way under the Princess Panel on the left so that the dress is easier to put on.
I plan to take detailed photos of this dress and will share a style and construction analysis. My next project will be based on this dress. I will use the new sloper I am developing for 1950s inspired outfits once it is finished.
I bought this vintage dress on Ebay during Lockdown 2020. The seller described the dress as custom made around the 1950s. It is about one size too big for me, but still I enjoy dressing up in it and taking photos in it. I am not sure if this is considered a cocktail dress, an evening dress or a day-to-evening dress. Sometimes the subtler categories for when women wore what kind of clothing in decades prior to the 1970s pass me by.
This dress is exquisitely made. It is fully lined in a matching mandarin orange colored silky fabric. Both the fabric and the lining are either 100% synthetic or a blend. The brocade of the dress is soft and very comfortable to wear. The sleeves are short mounted sleeves with a gusset under the arm. I think in the U.K. the term is “grown-on sleeve”. The dress closes with a center back slot zipper. There are many other finishing and construction details I will share in the future.
When you see a vintage garment you are interested in for study and/or wear, buy it if you can afford it. Once you own it you have a piece of fashion history. You also have a study piece that will expand your knowledge first hand of how clothing was constructed in the past.
I am preparing two slopers this summer. I already created one that I use for 1940s to early 1950s inspired styles. I used that for the Alice Elizabeth dress and the Linda skirt and blouse. I am now in the progress of creating a more structured sloper that I think will work well with the more detailed and fitted styles of the mid-1950s. As a challenge and contrast, I am also researching slopers from the 1930s. The look of the 1930s was very flowing and not fitted the way 1950s clothing was.
My 1940s sloper is available for copying and sizing here. It is a standard Misses 8. The sloper for the 1950s structured fashions is also in a size 8. However, I think the 1930s look is very flattering to smaller sizes so that sloper will be in a standard Misses 4. I do not intend to use drafting systems from the 1930s. Instead, I will drape a basic unfitted bodice and skirt that approximate the look of a set of pattern blocks I located in a small paperback book called Dress Cutting by Margaret C. Ralston. I will draft a fitted sleeve with vertical dart to complete the sloper.
Here are the screen shots showing the basic block Margaret created from her drafting system. I find it a bit confusing to follow. I am also not sure the fit will be comfortable for the modern women. The sleeve looks very fitted and the sleeve seam is 3/4″ to the front of the bodice side seam. While I love vintage styles I do not think it is essential to go so far to recreate or be inspired by the look. The key for me is inspired interpretation.
Pattern Block from Dress Cutting by Margaret Ralston
The bodice front and back appear to be completely unfitted. In some directions for pattern transformations one dart above the bodice is shown. It might also be a tuck. I assume the bodice block had enough width for this dart-tuck to be created.
The skirt is a rectangle equal to half the hip circumference. It is then slashed and overlapped and the top edge so that the waistline measurement results. I plan to drape a basic sheath skirt. Once that fits, I will distribute the dart ease across skirt front and back waistline. Then slightly overlap the sections. That will produce a slightly flared, straight skirt which is the starting point for the skirt styles in this book. For the bodice I will drape an unfitted bodice. It will go straight to the hip and have the waistline marked off as well. There will be one vertical dart above the bust in front and a neckline dart or two in the back. I’m basing the dart positions on the fitting dress or toile shown in the previous posting.
I think developing different bodice and skirt slopers gives one a more extensive collection of shapes to work from. As I research the 1930s, I’m understanding that for the 1960s an unfitted dress sloper works well. So would an A-Line skirt sloper. Those are the two key shapes for dresses and skirts of the 1960s.
Here are the snap shots of the pattern blocks from Dress Cutting. The last snap shot is a dress that can be made using he pattern blocks and transformation instructions in the book.
Cover of Dress Cutting by Margaret Ralston.
Bodice front and back.
Basic skirt front and back.
Basic sleeve.
Fitted sleeves.
One of the styles that can be created using the block and instructions in Dress Cutting by Margaret Ralston.
This posting initiates a series on my adventure into creating a 1930s type sloper in a modern day Misses size 4. I think modern sewistas and patternmakers can get a similar look without the expense of a vintage pattern purchase. Nor will there be the many fitting challenges that come with using a vintage pattern. My goal is to simplify a process of creation, not complicate it or make it overly time consuming. I think if enough research is done, it will be possible to come close to the shapes of a basic sloper for the 1930s.
Draping Technique I will use
I am going to use the 1940s draping system called Precision Draping which was developed by Nellie Weymouth Link. The book has been reprinted and is available at booksellers online new or used. While this is not a 1930s draping technique, it is a vintage one. It is easy to learn and provides a good foundation for exploration into the styles of other decades.
Beginning point
As always, research and reading provide insights and ideas. I begin this journey by making available for you a section of Weldons Encyclopedia of Needlework from my very small collection of vintage sewing books. It was published by The Waverley Book Col, Ltd. of Farringdon Street, London, E.C. 4, but no date of publication exists in the book! I estimate that the edition I have was published in the 1930s. As you can see in the illustrations that follow, the silhouette is close to 1930s fashions with longer hemlines and flowing skirts. The fashion figure is also slender and soft. The boxier fashions with emphasis on the shoulder line of the 1940s is not present in the chapter I post here.
We will continue this exploration into the elements of a 1930 sloper and the key takeaways for creating a sloper that can approximate the look in the next posting. For now I hope you enjoy this look into what a sloper and dress form from the 1930s looked like. What is shown here may or may not be typical but it has elements that appear in another flat pattern drafting system from the 1930s that appear in another book I have and will use in this series.
“The Dressmaker’s Model and Fitting Pattern” from Weldon’s Encyclopedia of Needlework
In my previous posting, “What are style lines?” I explained what style lines are. I showed how a few style lines can be used to transform a basic skirt and bodice into a vintage inspired fashion from a 1964 magazine photograph.
Today, I’m sharing classroom handouts from a vintage patternmaking book. The style lines used are easy to understand and clearly illustrated on the basic bodice. Based on my knowledge of patternmaking it looks like the “slash and spread” method was used. This means, the pattern was created by tracing the basic sloper. The style lines were then drawn. After that, the pattern was slashed and spread when tucks or gathers had to be created. Other patterns were simply cut along the style lines, like the one for the princess line bodice.
I estimate that these pattern transformations are from the 1940s.
The basic pattern, a/k/a sloper, is the blueprint of a person’s body. It is a one dimensional representation of the measurements of the body used within a pattern drafting system. Or, the dress form itself is the basic pattern in three dimensional form. It represents the standard size or the size of the person for whom it was custom made.
The process of working the basic pattern into an individual style is called pattern transformation. Style lines are used to map out how the emerging style will look. They are drawn onto the basic pattern. Alternately, style tape is pinned to the dress form to show how the garment pieces will look. This helps the draper know where to mold the fabric and how the garment piece should look.
Analyzing an outfit and seeing the style lines
A knowledge of the different forms sleeves, bodices, skirts, collars, pants and dresses can take helps in analyzing an existing style. Rough sketches help clarify if one is seeing the style lines correctly or misinterpreting a photograph or sketch someone else has made. Of course the best way to analyze a garment is to see it in real time. That is not always, possible, though. When one is inspired by a vintage style sketching and studying photos is one way to help in the recreation or updated expression of that style.
An economical way to practice visualizing and understanding stylelines is to have a library of basic bodices, sleeves, skirts and slacks printed on 8 1/2 x 11 paper. With colored pencil or pen these copies can have style lines drawn over them. Immediately you can see the blueprint for the pattern transformation. Which darts and seams the style lines intersect with also comes to the fore. It is possible to get a better idea what needs to be done for the actual transformation.
Example of a style analysis and practice transformation
This photo comes from a 1964 edition of the Saturday Evening Post. Fashions from Hong Kong were featured. This cocktail outfit consists of a silk sheath shirt and unfitted, sleeveless blouse.
On copies of a basic bodice and basic skirt, fronts and backs, style lines are sketched and notes added to better understand one possible way to recreate, or at least interpret, the original 1964 fashion.
I hope these suggestions help you in your next vintage inspired style recreation or adaptation.
Pour Moi 
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