Tag: pencil skirt with kickpleat

Sheath Skirt Half-toile created from pattern drafting instruction sheet circa 1960s

Introduction

Close-up of the vintage pattern drafting instructions circa 1960s.

On 6th January 2022, I posted screen shots of an original 1960s pattern drafting instruction sheet. Since the original is faded, I typed up the instructions along with my comments. The instructions are the simplest flat pattern drafting instructions I’ve used so far. In this posting I evaluation the half-toile created using the measurements for a Misses Size 4. Please click this link for the pattern drafting instructions

Evaluating the Results

Front (l) and back (r) views of the sheath skirt half-toile.

The instructions about dart placement referred to a basic bodice with a vertical dart under the bust. The position of the first dart for skirt front and back had to align with that dart on the bodice. I used the measurement from Center Front to Princess Line and the waist. For the back skirt I measured from Center Back to the Princess Line at the back waist. The second dart was located in the center between the princess line and side seam .

I am very pleased with the fit of the skirt. The drafting instructions state that 2 inches is added to the hip measurement for ease. However, no ease is factored in for the waistline. Considering that I will use a waistband and perhaps a lining I knew ease at the waist was essential. I also know the blouse I envision for the outfit will be tucked in. I added 1″ to the waistline and then drafted the skirt.

Views of the half-toile to show how hip curve looks.

The only correction I have to make is mid-way along the hip curve. Once the curve has a more even line the pattern will be ready for cutting the fashion fabric.

Office Suite

A perfect outfit for work or a meeting with a client. The pebble crepe blouse has a pussycat bow made from a bias strip of fabric which finishes the neckline.

The pencil skirt achieves a good fit through two darts on each side of the front and back. A kick pleat allows greater walking movement without exposing the legs. The zipper is hidden inside of the back seam.

Since the bow is the focal point at center front the best accessories are either earrings or a headband or pretty comb. I chose these stud earrings with amber colored crystals that complement the cream colored crepe of the blouse.