Hand washing vintage clothing and lingerie, modern lingerie, and delicate clothing

Introduction

In my previous posting, CLOTHING CARE FOR WASHABLE HANDMADE AND VINTAGE CLOTHING, PART 2, I presented screen shots from the 1930 book Paris Frocks at Home. The instructions in this chapter of the book present useful pointers for hand washing the lightweight, delicate garments coming into vogue as the 1930s started. It was no longer necessary to use a scrub board, harsh soaps and very hot water. The new way to wash garments made from lightweight fabrics was by ‘tubbing’ them. This meant washing by hand using a mild soap and warm water. The clothes were gently moved through the water to let the suds work through the garment. Then the garments soaked for a few minutes before rinsing. I have adapted some of these techniques to my own manner of handwashing delicate lingerie, vintage lingerie, handmade clothing and delicate clothing. They have worked very well for me. Perhaps there are some aspects of the washing routine in the previous posting and this one that will prove useful to you.

Examples of what I handwash

Examples of lingerie and garments I hand wash.

In these photos are examples of hand washables. From left to right: a vintage 1960s cotton half slip; a modern pull over with handbeading and sequins at the neckline; an underwire, uplift bra; panty girdle; pantyhose.

How to protect delicate clothing and lingerie

Mesh laundry bags protect delicate clothes during the wash cycle in a washing machine. The clothing can remain in the mesh bag during the drying cycle, too. I use mesh laundry bags for hand washing, too. They protect my pantyhose and stockings from snagging. They protect the embroidery on a panty girdle from snagging or fraying due to a hook on a bra in the laundry tub. Beading on a garment is also protected from pulling caused by another garment in the wash tub.

In the photo on the right are the garments shown in the previous section. The pantyhose and stockings go in the smallest bag. Two white slips are in the largest bag. The pink top with beaded neckline is in the medium sized mesh bag.

What you need to hand wash your vintage and delicate clothing and lingerie

First, a very gentle and effective laundry soap is necessary. Shop for one that works with cold water. A fabric softener is optional. I use a brand made for sensitive skin. It is very mild and leaves the clothing soft and smooth. Use of a softener also makes the clothes and lingerie easier to iron.

I have a collapsible wash tub. It saves space when not in use. For drying I chose a bamboo clothes dryer. Plastic or steel is also good. The important thing is to let the rack dry out before folding and storing. It pays to clean it off at least once a month with soap and water. This will prevent the growth of black mildew which can rub off and stain what you hang on the rack.

Hand washing and drying

Make sure to have white, lint free bath towels available. White cotton kitchen towels that are clean and unstained can also be used. I have some cotton towels that I reserve only for use when hand washing.

I wash colored clothes and lingerie in one soaking. Whites are washed separately. They are soaked in the soapy water for 10 minutes. All items remain in their mesh laundry bags. They are rinsed and then soaked in fabric softener for 5 minutes. The water is drained off and the mesh laundry bags remain in the sink for a few minutes.

Each mesh bag is placed on a white, cotton dish towel and rolled up. The excess water is squeezed out. The laundered clothing and lingerie is then hung on the drying rack. I place a towel underneath the rack. It is rare that a lot of water drips off since the excess was squeezed out before. As suggested in Paris Frocks at Home, I use an electric fan placed in front of the drying rack to dry the clothes and lingerie off. I usually leave the fan on high for 20-30 minutes.

After this, I might place the rack in the living room near the door to the balcony. On a sunny day everything dries nicely with the benefit of the sunshine. Once dry, the cotton slip is ready for ironing. In the next posting I’ll offer some tips from ironing clothes based on vintage sewing books and my own experiences.

Clothing Care for Washable Handmade and Vintage Clothing

Introduction

Many vintage sewing books have chapters devoted to the hand laundering and pressing of delicate and handmade clothing. Detailed instructions also include how to block wo0len sweaters, pre-shrink wools, and prepare silks for ironing.

Paris Frocks At Home was published by the Butterick Publishing Company in 1930. It, too, includes instructions on how to hand wash lingerie and clothing the seamstress makes. The wonder of it all fills the chapter as the authors praise the lightweight fabrics and simple lines of the fashions of that time. Even laundering was simplified. What we call handwashing or hand laundering is termed “tubbing” in the book. This is just another way to describe washing delicate clothes in a wash basin or separate tub.

Part of the section about ironing follows the one about tubbing. More to come in the next posting.

I hope you enjoy this excerpt. After sharing excerpts on pressing from Paris Frocks At Home, I will detail my own approach to laundering and care of washable vintage and handmade clothing. I am making the information from Paris Frocks at Home available for its historical value and as a way to compare clothing care in 1930 with clothing care in 2023.

Paris Frocks At Home: Tubbing you clothes

To be continued.

Clothing Care & Storage

Introduction

Proper storage and care for our vintage and handmade clothing prolongs the life of the garment for the future. An investment in the materials and accessories to achieve this goal are well worth it. I will share some of my own tips on how to provide the care your clothes need before being put in the closet.

Essentials for storage of vintage and handmade clothing

By handmade, I mean clothing the sewista makes for themself. A garment made from a pattern drafted by the sewista or purchased from a designer, along with fabric and notions, represents a substantial investment of time and money. Therefore, the right hangers and garment storage essentials should be considered part of that investment.

Padded hangers are a must for all garments. So are skirt and slacks hangers. Some padded hangers include skirt hangers. This is a must when you have to economize on space in a small closet.

I have found that many padded hangers sold on Amazon as suitable for blouses are at times too wide. They are better suited to coats or suit jackets. A padded hanger with a slightly shorter width works better for blouses. There will be less of the hanger extending into the sleeve.

More expensive padded hangers include satin buttons sewn at each end. The buttons act as a way to keep the garment from slipping off. It is a nice feature but not essential.

Acid free tissue paper is a must. You can use it to fill out the neckline and chest area of the blouse, dress or jacket. Insert some inside sleeves to prevent wrinkling.

Cedar wood chips or balls are a natural moth deterrent. Buy a bag and place one or two balls at the bottom of the garment bag. You can also buy a small drawstring bag to hold the cedar chips or balls. Place the bag over the hanger before zipping the garment bag closed.

Avoid using plastic garment bags that do not breathe. The ideal garment bag is made of unbleached muslin. These are very expensive but worth the investment for a very special garment. There are also garment bags made of synthetic materials that breathe. They do not cost as much and are an economical choice for an everyday garment. Here, too, you can use some cedar chips to keep moths away. You can also buy a larger drawstring bag to hold any special accessories you use specifically with that garment, such as a piece of costume jewelry, a hairband or pair of gloves, stockings, etc.

Skirt hangers can leave marks on the waistband of slacks or skirts. I create a cushion out of a white, 100% cotton kitchen towel by folding it a few times. I place it over the waistband. Then I place the skirt or slacks into the clips on the hanger. This prevents any marks or indenting from the clips.