Tag: Style Lines

Style lines from a vintage patternmaking handout

In my previous posting, “What are style lines?” I explained what style lines are. I showed how a few style lines can be used to transform a basic skirt and bodice into a vintage inspired fashion from a 1964 magazine photograph.

Today, I’m sharing classroom handouts from a vintage patternmaking book. The style lines used are easy to understand and clearly illustrated on the basic bodice. Based on my knowledge of patternmaking it looks like the “slash and spread” method was used. This means, the pattern was created by tracing the basic sloper. The style lines were then drawn. After that, the pattern was slashed and spread when tucks or gathers had to be created. Other patterns were simply cut along the style lines, like the one for the princess line bodice.

I estimate that these pattern transformations are from the 1940s.

What are style lines?

Introduction

The basic pattern, a/k/a sloper, is the blueprint of a person’s body. It is a one dimensional representation of the measurements of the body used within a pattern drafting system. Or, the dress form itself is the basic pattern in three dimensional form. It represents the standard size or the size of the person for whom it was custom made.

The process of working the basic pattern into an individual style is called pattern transformation. Style lines are used to map out how the emerging style will look. They are drawn onto the basic pattern. Alternately, style tape is pinned to the dress form to show how the garment pieces will look. This helps the draper know where to mold the fabric and how the garment piece should look.

Analyzing an outfit and seeing the style lines

A knowledge of the different forms sleeves, bodices, skirts, collars, pants and dresses can take helps in analyzing an existing style. Rough sketches help clarify if one is seeing the style lines correctly or misinterpreting a photograph or sketch someone else has made. Of course the best way to analyze a garment is to see it in real time. That is not always, possible, though. When one is inspired by a vintage style sketching and studying photos is one way to help in the recreation or updated expression of that style.

An economical way to practice visualizing and understanding stylelines is to have a library of basic bodices, sleeves, skirts and slacks printed on 8 1/2 x 11 paper. With colored pencil or pen these copies can have style lines drawn over them. Immediately you can see the blueprint for the pattern transformation. Which darts and seams the style lines intersect with also comes to the fore. It is possible to get a better idea what needs to be done for the actual transformation.

Example of a style analysis and practice transformation

This photo comes from a 1964 edition of the Saturday Evening Post. Fashions from Hong Kong were featured. This cocktail outfit consists of a silk sheath shirt and unfitted, sleeveless blouse.

On copies of a basic bodice and basic skirt, fronts and backs, style lines are sketched and notes added to better understand one possible way to recreate, or at least interpret, the original 1964 fashion.

I hope these suggestions help you in your next vintage inspired style recreation or adaptation.