Creating a Basic Fitting Toile &Alterations, Part 3


When I draped the basic skirt I ended up with two darts for the front and back skirts. I had followed the instructions in in Draping for Fashion Design by Hilda Jaffe and Nurie Rellis. Although the dart intake was evenly distributed the finished results were unsatisfactory. In this posting I will share how I evalatuated the results and made the correction.

The first drape

After the skirt toile was completed it was stitched to the basic bodice. The two darts did not create a smooth fit over the abdomen as it curves to the hipline in front and back. I noticed there were tiny pleats following the end of the larger dart placed over the princess line in front and back of the form.

Version 1 of the skirt.

The tiny folds forming from the end of the dart to the hipline needed fixing. At first it looks like the dart should be lengthened. However, that is not an attractive look. Darts in the front of a skirt should run from waist to abodomen level. The length is usually 4 1/2-5″ but not any longer.

Close up of version 1 of the skirt.

The dart has to release its fullness over the fullest point where it lies. What I decided to do was change the pattern from two darts to one dart. I used the same amount of intake for the single dart. I also added a little ease at the hem line at the side seam. This creates a less tubular effect for the basic skirt. I like the look so will try it for the first project using the completed sloper.

Corrected skirt toile

I made a half-toile of the corrected skirt to check the dart placement, the way it lies against the form and the slight ease at the hemline.

Corrected skirt.

The corrections worked without the need for me to drape another skirt front and back. The solution was to simply redraw one dart, slightly past the princess line going towards the side seam. For the front skirt the dart length is 4 1/2″. For the back 5 1/2″. I used the intake of the two darts to create one dart each for front and back. The dart intake is now 1″ each.

Corrected skirt toile close-up

I marked the dart line with red and black dots so you can see the difference. The corrected darts now line smoothly and release the fullness without any tucks forming.

In my next posting I will upload a sketch of the shirtwaist dress I will make using the basic sloper made from this drape.

Published by EmilyAnn Frances

Born and grew up in Brooklyn, New York when it was a borough for working families and businesses. It was the pre-Gentrification Brooklyn where you could see the sky against the trees, mingle with people from all backgrounds and make friends. A place where people bought a house for living in. There were no tourists, rarely a hotel and the word luxury was for those who lived far away. After gentrification I felt no connection to the borough or city I once loved. I now live in Linden, New Jersey where a spirit of community and neighborly interest still exists.