Creating a Basic Fitting Toile & Alterations, Part 2


I have completed alterations to the bodice of the fitting toile I draped for a Misses Size 8. The time was well spent. A comparison to the first toile and this one will show the value of taking time to ensure a good fit.

Assessing the fit

Fitting tucks were made vertically in the front and back fitting bodice. This kind of alteration removed excess fullness from the front and back bodices. In this second version of the fitting toile the previous issues are resolved. Now the fit is smooth.

The neckline darts at the back of the bodice were removed through a combination of shaping at the center back seam and removing a small amount from the neckline near the shoulder.

Right now I’m at work on the basic, unfitted sleeve. Once that is set in I will evaluate the balance and hang of the sleeve. I always start with the unfitted rather than the fitted sleeve with elbow dart. The unfitted sleeve is the building block for more elaborate fitted and mounted sleeves.

Next week I will drape the basic skirt. In that posting I will cover a few basic alterations and fitting tips.


Achieving the right fit is of the utmost importance to the success of a finished garment. Even a simple chemise or sheath dress, a basic skirt and blouse…all will look top notch when the fit is just right for you. People will notice how flattering your creation is for you. When the fit is poor, people will notice the flaws. The amount of time and money spent on the project will not even come to their attention. It is a good investment, then, to get the fitting issues resolved first.